WEAVING GLOSSARY

This glossary grows with every post in the Weavers Weft blog series. Terms are added with each new post — check back as your weaving vocabulary builds.

Beat The act of pressing each weft pick firmly into place using the beater on a floor loom or the heddle on a rigid heddle loom. Your beat determines how dense your finished fabric is — too light and the weave is loose and open, too heavy and it becomes stiff. Consistent beat is one of those things that improves naturally as you find your rhythm. Introduced in Blog 2

Cone A yarn package that is wider at the base and narrower at the top. Cones are typically used for heavier or bulkier yarns and unwind best when placed vertically. Introduced in Blog 1

Cottolin A yarn blend of cotton and linen. The linen adds absorbency and durability while the cotton keeps it soft and easy to work with. Maurice Brassard Cottolin is the same size as 8/2 cotton and can be used interchangeably in warp or weft. Introduced in Blog 1

Draft A diagram that shows how a weave structure is set up — which shafts to thread, which treadles to press, and in what order. Most beginner patterns include the draft for you. You won't need to write your own until you're ready to design original structures. Introduced in Blog 2

End One individual warp thread. When a pattern says "280 ends," it means 280 separate threads in your warp. You'll see this term constantly in project setup instructions. Introduced in Blog 2

EPI (Ends Per Inch) The number of warp threads that fit in one inch of your reed. EPI determines how closely packed your weave will be. A higher EPI creates a tighter, finer fabric; a lower EPI creates a more open, relaxed weave. Introduced in Blog 1

Heddle A looped wire or flat piece with an eye (hole) in the center through which individual warp threads are threaded. Heddles are held in frames called shafts and are raised or lowered to create the shed. Introduced in Blog 1

Hemstitch A hand-finishing technique worked while the weaving is still on the loom, at the very beginning and end of each project. Hemstitch locks the weft in place and creates a clean, even fringe. If your pattern calls for it, don't skip it — it's what keeps everything intact after you cut the cloth off the loom. Introduced in Blog 2

Mercerized A finishing process applied to cotton yarn that adds shine and strength. Mercerized cotton has a smoother, slightly silkier appearance than unmercerized cotton. Introduced in Blog 1

Pick One single pass of weft across the warp. Picks per inch (PPI) tells you how many of these passes fit into one inch of finished fabric. Introduced in Blog 2

Plain Weave The most basic weave structure, where the weft thread passes alternately over and under each warp thread. It's the foundation of most weaving projects. Introduced in Blog 1

Ply The number of individual strands twisted together to make a yarn. In yarn sizing notation, the second number indicates the ply. For example, 8/2 cotton is two plies twisted together. Introduced in Blog 1

PPI (Picks Per Inch) The number of weft passes per inch in your finished fabric. PPI is controlled by how firmly you beat. A consistent PPI produces an even, balanced cloth. For most dishtowel projects in 8/2 cotton, a target of 20 PPI works well. Introduced in Blog 2

Reed A comb-like device inside the beater of a loom through which warp threads are sleyed (threaded). The reed determines the spacing of your warp threads and is measured in dents per inch. Introduced in Blog 1

Sett The number of warp ends per inch in your weaving, determined by your yarn weight and weave structure. Sett is typically expressed as EPI. Introduced in Blog 1

Shed The opening that forms between raised and lowered warp threads when you press a treadle or move the heddle. The shed is where you pass your shuttle through to lay in the weft. No shed, no weaving. Introduced in Blog 2

Shuttle The tool that carries your weft yarn across the shed. A stick shuttle is a flat piece of wood — inexpensive, easy to use, and perfectly suited for narrower widths. A boat shuttle holds a removable bobbin and makes weaving faster at wider widths. Introduced in Blog 2

Sley The process of threading your warp ends through the dents of the reed, one or more per dent depending on your sett. "Sley 2 ends per dent in a 10-dent reed" gives you 20 EPI. Sleying happens after you've threaded the heddles and before you tie on to the front beam. Introduced in Blog 2

Selvedge(also spelled "selvage") The finished edges that run along both sides of your weaving. Clean, even selvedges are the first technical goal most weavers set for themselves — and they get better naturally as you find your rhythm at the loom. Your first project's selvedges will teach you more than any book can. Introduced in Blog 2

Thrum The short warp ends left on the loom after a finished project is cut off. Too short to weave with, but full of possibility — weavers often save thrums for stuffing, felting, or tassels. Introduced in Blog 1

Treadling The sequence in which you press the treadles on a floor loom to raise specific shaft combinations and create a pattern. Changing the treadling sequence on the same warp is what gives you different weave structures — plain weave, twill, and beyond. Introduced in Blog 2

Tube A straight cylindrical yarn package, the same width from top to bottom. Maurice Brassard 8/2, 8/4, and Cottolin are all sold on tubes. For best results, wind off a tube horizontally rather than vertically to avoid adding extra twist to the yarn. Introduced in Blog 1

Twill A weave structure that creates a diagonal pattern in the fabric. Twill requires a higher EPI than plain weave and produces a denser, more durable cloth. Introduced in Blog 1

Unmercerized Cotton yarn that has not gone through the mercerizing process. Unmercerized cotton has a natural matte finish and excellent absorbency, making it ideal for towels and other functional projects. Introduced in Blog 1

Warp The threads that run lengthwise on the loom, held under tension. The warp is set up before weaving begins and determines the length and width of your project. Introduced in Blog 1

Weft The thread that is woven crosswise through the warp threads to create the fabric. The weft is carried back and forth on a shuttle or bobbin. Introduced in Blog 1

Yarn Count/Sizing A numbering system that describes a yarn's thickness and construction. The first number indicates thickness (higher = finer), and the second number indicates the number of plies. For example, 8/2 cotton is a fine yarn with two plies. Note that Canadian mills like Maurice Brassard reverse the numbers — so 8/2 and 2/8 are the same yarn. Introduced in Blog 1